Burger Merger No. 1: Burgerlords x Otium
943 North Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90012
When Otium opened in 2015, it surely was one of the most hotly anticipated restaurant openings Los Angeles had seen in some time. Nestled in the crook of a grove of dust-green olive trees and the hivelike Broad Museum, this cantilevered structure of wood and glass – with its sinewy steel beams and vaulting ceilings – drew attention for its architecture before it every plated a dish.
When finally it did open, there was the requisite amount of buzz. Some loved it, others hated it. But regardless of where your allegiances may fall in the J-Gold / B(a)esha Rodell clash (in case you were wondering, Otium doesn’t crack my top ten (or twenty (or thirty)) restaurants in the city; I think it’s very good, ambitious but not indispensable), one thing was certain: through Otium, Timothy Hollingsworth sought to leave a footprint, to be among the most significant restaurants in the city.
Has Chef Hollingsworth achieved his goal? That probably depends on who you ask. Some say Hollingsworth is among the preeminent chefs in Los Angeles already. That’s not an outrageous claim (to be sure, it’s impressive that after so brief a spell in the city, he can have so dedicated a following) but if we’re being honest, the plaudits probably are a little premature. Like, Brandon Ingram has a smooth jump shot and can get to the rack in style, but he’s not the franchise yet, you know?
Weirdly enough, the clearest evidence of this has come when he stepped out of his open kitchen by the Broad and ventured east and north, into Chinatown, to Burgerlords, slinging special collaboration burgers, which will be available every Monday in October. The so-called Burger Merger presented a more aw-shucks picture of Tim Hollingsworth. Clad in skinny jeans and a t-shirt commemorating the collaboration, flax-blonde hair styled in a very in-style undercut, he navigated the gathered crowd with easy charm and familiarity.
In this inaugural Burger Murger, Hollingsworth put forth two offerings: a barbecued eel burger, which is the object of this review (and which Nikhil, Adam, and I ordered), and a vegan burger (ordered by Kelsey as part of what I can only conclude is a campaign to humiliate herself and discredit me), which is the object of nothing more than my pervasive and fundamental contempt.
The Order: Barbecued Eel Burger
If you’re like me, you’ll have questions as you approach this event. What is the point of this collaboration? What exactly is a barbecued eel burger? Is it a ground eel patty? Is it a slab of eel in lieu of a patty? Is that vegan judging me? Is the eel a topping? Is this going to be disgusting? Is this event moving the ball towards Timothy Hollingsworth being an L.A. food icon? Did anyone order the vegan burger? Did I leave my car lights on?
You might not come away with clear answers to those questions after eating this burger. I can tell you this much: There is a beef patty. The burger features shishito peppers, scallions, tomato, avocado, mayonnaise, and barbecued eel.
Here’s the problem: When you brand something as a barbecued eel burger, customers will fairly expect to know where the eel is, to be able to identify it visually and within the flavor profile of the burger. That’s not possible here. This burger was good, but it didn’t taste like a barbecued eel burger. The eel, sliced into oblivion, did little besides add a little extra savor to every bite, a sort of fish-saucy roundness to the finish (it might have balanced better had there been an extra patty; the single patty was a bit paltry for my taste). That’s fine, but let’s be clear: Calling this a barbecued eel burger was a branding choice made to offer the appearance of innovative sophistication. It wasn’t a reflection of the actual flavor profile of the burger.
Besides that, it’s a relatively milquetoast offering, defined only by its internal conflict. The toppings compete rather than cooperate. The shishitos are masked by the overwhelming savor of the meats. The traces of avocado within an overwhelming matrix of mayonnaise get lost like a ship in fog. A thick slice of tomato, juicy and bright, is the highlight of the toppings, but simultaneously renders what otherwise might have been subtly cooling fronds of scallion little more than bitter whispers.
So sure, this burger will draw a lot of attention. There will be lines across the courtyard and – probably – plaudits from Hollingsworth’s faithful (who, weirdly enough, can approach Beyhive/Belieber/Team Breezy levels of fervor). In the end, though, this first Burger Merger feels like little more than an exercise public relations symbiosis. I’ll stop short of saying it’s cynical, because the product isn’t bad. But it’s a way to increase Burgerlords’ profile while making Timothy Hollingsworth seem a little more integrated into this city. At that much – and probably not more than that much – it will be successful.
Flavor: 8.10 / 10.00
Freshness/Quality: 10.00 / 10.00
Efficiency: 7.90 / 10.00
Value: 9.00 / 10.00
Creativity/Style: 9.50 / 10.00
Bun: 9.60 / 10.00
Patty: 7.40 / 10.00
Toppings: 6.40 / 10.00
Sauce: 6.10 / 10.00
Balance: 7.20 / 10.00
Total: 81.20 / 100.00